Regardless of how ducks obtain their food, whether it be by scavenging, or consuming a complete ration, the food consumed must contain all the nutrients, in an available form, that are needed for maintenance, growth and reproduction. Feeding practices will depend in part on the number of ducks raised. If only a few ducks are kept by a household, and they have access to areas where they can forage, they may be able to survive, grow and lay eggs by consuming available food such as green plants, insects, snails, frogs, and table scraps. Under such conditions, ducks will likely grow very slowly and produce a small number of eggs. Herded ducks are an exception, but they require access to large areas where food is available and the care of a herdsman. If keepers of small home flocks want better growth and more eggs they will have to provide supplemental feed. At a minimum they will have to feed some grain. As the size of a home flock increases, it becomes more likely that the flock will not be able to get enough food by foraging and supplemental feeding will become necessary. If more than a few ducks are to be kept, or if increased performance is desired, there are a number of choices of feeding practices: (1) If available and affordable, purchase nutritionally complete commercially prepared duck feeds. If duck rations are not available, and chicken feeds are, they will serve as a satisfactory substitute. (2) If poultry feed concentrates, which when fed with grain constitute a nutritionally complete diet, are available at a reasonable price, this may be a good option. The grain can sometimes be purchased from local farmers at a favorable price. (3) For those with sufficient knowledge of nutrition and feed formulation, complete duck rations may be mixed on the farm. This approach is dependent upon the availability of feed ingredients and vitamin and mineral premixes at affordable prices. Small batches can be mixed by turning the feed on a clean floor with a shovel.

Ducks require the same nutrients as chickens, but in slightly different amounts, and particularly in terms of the ratio of each nutrient to the energy concentration of the diet. Suggested nutrient levels for complete duck rations are listed in Duck Feed Formulation. These levels are set high enough to meet the requirements of all breeds of domestic ducks. Requirements more closely tailored to each particular breed are available, and are usually preferred by commercial duck producers. Because correct nutrient levels for a particular ration depend on the energy level of that ration (ducks eat progressively more feed as the energy level is lowered and progressively less as it is raised), nutrient requirements are listed in the Duck Feed Formulation in reference to a particular energy level.

Energy
Ducks, like chickens, have simple stomachs, and therefore cannot digest appreciable amounts of dietary fiber (cellulose, lignin). In contrast to chickens, however, ducks over four weeks of age have an exceptional capacity to consume large quantities of foodstuffs that are high in fiber. When such foodstuffs contain even small amounts of available energy, ducks may be able to consume enough of such foodstuffs to partially or even fully meet their energy requirements.  However when low energy foodstuffs, such as cereal by-products, are available at favorable prices, they can be incorporated into duck rations at fairly high levels, so long as the ration is well balanced.

Protein
Ducks, like other poultry, do not actually require “protein” but the individual amino acids contained in dietary proteins. The proteins in the diet are broken down during digestion to amino acids which are absorbed and used by the duck to make its own body proteins, such as those in muscle and feathers. Certain of these amino acids must be supplied in the diet because the duck cannot make them from other sources. These are called essential amino acids. When formulating feeds for ducks, primary attention is paid to meeting the ducks essential amino acid requirements. Protein levels that meet the ducks amino acid requirements may vary slightly, depending upon the amino acid content of the ingredients used in each formulation.

Minerals and vitamins
Minerals and vitamins required by ducks and suggested levels of use are listed in our Duck Feed Formulation (only those most important in practical rations are listed). Close attention should be paid to calcium, phosphorus and sodium. Note that the phosphorus requirement is expressed in terms of available phosphorus. A large amount of the phosphorus in plants is bound in the form of phytic acid which is unavailable to ducks and other fowl. A rule of thumb used by nutritionists is that only about 1/3 of the phosphorus in foodstuffs of plant origin (cereal grains, soybean meal etc.) is available to poultry. Close to 100% of the phosphorus in inorganic (mineral) sources such as dicalcium phosphate is available. If a duck producer mixes his own feed, the simplest way, and often the most economical as well, is to add vitamins and trace minerals. If it is not possible to use prepared premixes, the next best choice is to purchase the vitamin and mineral sources and make your own premixes. If neither of the above choices are feasible, it will be necessary to include foodstuffs, high in the vitamins and minerals that are lacking, in the ration.

Feeding Developing Breeders
Meat-type ducks, such as Pekins, that are kept as pets or breeding stock will become excessively fat (which is detrimental to their health and will impair their reproductive performance) if fed all they will eat during their development prior to lay. It is therefore necessary to limit their daily intake of feed to an amount that will supply all the necessary nutrients that are needed for proper development, while avoiding an excess of calories. For best results, feed restriction should begin at about 2 weeks of age but for practical reasons it is often begun at about 7 weeks. From the time restriction is begun, and up until the breeders are sufficiently mature (about 28 weeks of age for Pekin ducks), their daily feed intake should be limited to 60 – 70 % of the amount they would eat if allowed to eat all they want. Since the ducks are very hungry at the time of feeding, the feed must be spread out so that all ducks have a chance to eat. Feed can be spread out in long wooden troughs, on a cement slab or on the ground if the area is dry and clean

Feeding Laying Breeders
Nutrient levels that duck breeder Layer rations contain a higher level of calcium than other duck rations because of the laying duck’s need for additional calcium for egg shell formation. A level of 3.00% of the diet is adequate for most breeds of ducks including high egg producing breeds. When enough calcium is included in the ration, it is not necessary to feed oyster shells in addition. However, it will do no harm to make oyster shells available, as is the practice on some duck farms.

Feedstuffs
Some feed ingredients contain substances that are toxic to ducks, and should not be included in duck rations. Groundnut meal (peanut meal) is often contaminated with aflatoxin, a toxin to which ducks are highly sensitive. Groundnut meal should not be used unless tests have proven it to be free of aflatoxin. Rapeseed meal is another feedstuff that is potentially toxic to ducks. Some older varieties of rapeseed meal contain erucic acid and goitrogens at levels high enough to be harmful to poultry. Ducks are much more sensitive to erucic acid than are chickens and turkeys. Genetically improved varieties of rapeseed (Canola) contain much lower levels of these toxins. However even Canola meals should first be tested in ducks before their use in duck feeds on a large scale.

Feed Quality
One of the most common causes of poor feed quality is failure to dry grains and other feedstuffs properly before storage. If grains that are too high in moisture are stored, without turning or aeration, the grain will heat up and mold and some of its nutritive value will be destroyed. As explained elsewhere, some molds may produce toxins that are particularly harmful to ducks. Make sure that the grains and other foodstuffs used in duck feeds were properly dried and are free of molds and other contamination. If table scraps, bakery waste, wet mash or other feeds high in moisture are fed, feed only what ducks will clean up in a day. If such feed remains in troughs longer, it will likely become moldy. Feedstuffs that are to be stored for very long should contain no more than 10-12% moisture.

Water
Plenty of clean drinking water should be available to ducks at least 8-12 hours per day. During periods when temperatures are above 90ºF, drinking water should be available in the evening until the temperature has dropped below 80°F, or else made available all night. Ducks do not require water for swimming in order to grow and reproduce normally. However, providing some water for wading or swimming can be beneficial, especially in hot climates. Ducks can expel excess heat through their bill and feet when allowed contact with water that is appreciably below their body temperature (107°F, 41.7°C). Water temperatures of 50-70°F (10-21°C) are ideal for ducks.

Mash or Pellets
It is a well established fact that ducks grow faster, and utilize their feed more efficiently, when fed pelleted rations than when their feed is in mash form.  However, pelleted feeds are not available in many areas of the world, and it may be difficult for small flock owners to get their home mixed feed pelleted. The problem with feeding dry mash to ducks is that it forms a sticky paste when mixed with saliva, which cakes and accumulates on the outer ridges of the mouth. In attempting to free their bills of caked feed, ducks make frequent trips to water to wash their bills, causing feed wastage. For small flock owners who are not able to pellet their duck feeds, one solution to the problems of feeding dry mash is to feed wet mash. Water is mixed with the mash just before feeding. Enough water is added to form a thick mush without making it watery. Mix only what ducks will clean up within a day.

Ducks are raised as pets on small ponds or lakes, for release in hunting preserves or conservation areas, and for eating purposes. The mallard is the most popular duck breed in the United States. Domestic ducks, such as the White Pekin and the Muscovy, are also popular. The commercial duck industry in the United states relies primarily on the White Pekin for meat production.

A combination of good nutrition and proper management are essential for raising healthy ducks. Maximum efficiency for growth and reproduction can be obtained by using commercially prepared diets. Because pet ducks are generally raised on open ponds or lakes, they are subject to predation. Predators that can damage your duck flock include: turtles, owl, hawks, raccoons, skunks, opossums, cats, and dogs. If possible, your ducks should be maintained in an enclosure that prevents predator access. If predation becomes a problem, recognition of the predator is imperative. Contact the state Conservation Department or Wildlife Resource Commission on the methods and legalities of removing predators from your property.

Feed Quality

Good commercially prepared duck feed, is available from most local feed stores. Some large duck operations may find mixing the complete feed on the farm to be less expensive than purchasing it from a commercial source. Regardless of whether feed is purchased or mixed on the farm, it must be stored away from rodents and insects in a clean, dry place to prevent contamination and mold growth. A pair of rats can eat or contaminate over 100 lbs of feed in a year. Use the feed within 3 weeks of the manufacturer’s date and sooner during hot, humid weather to prevent loss of vitamins and mold formation. Stale or bad-smelling feed is evidence of spoilage and possible mold contamination. Never use feed that is moldy because some molds produce toxins which could cause serious health problems or poor growth. Ducks are extremely sensitive to mold toxins. For example, ducks are sensitive to as little as 30 of ppb aflatoxin. Mold toxins can cause damage to the ducks’ digestive organs, liver, kidneys, muscles, and plumage, and can also reduce growth and/or reproductive performance.

The quality of feed ingredients is also very important. Do not use grains that are contaminated with molds, weed seeds, or dirt. Avoid using old vitamin/mineral packs because they lose their effectiveness with time, especially if they are exposed to sunlight or heat.

Feeders and Waterers

Growing ducks should be allowed free access to feed and water at all times. Proper feeder and waterer height, maintenance and sanitation are essential for achieving uniform flock growth and health. Small feeders should be used until the ducklings are 2 weeks of age. Larger feed hoppers should be used for older ducks. The feeder pan height should be at a level even with the back of the average duck. Waterer pan height should be even with the lower neck area of the average duck and water nipples should be adjusted at a slightly higher level. Feeders and waterers that are too low result in excessive wastage. Those that are too high restrict feed and water access to the smallest ducks and thus increase size variation in the flock.

Waterers and feeders must be kept as clean as possible at all times. Shelter feeders from the sun, wind, rain, and snow to minimize feed spoilage. Feed hoppers that are used outdoors should have lids that fit securely. If feed hoppers are placed within a building or pen and water supplies are placed outside, the hoppers should be closed overnight to prevent the ducks from choking on dry feed. Water may be supplied in hand-filled water fountains or by automatic waterers. To prevent wet litter, place the water supply above wire flooring or on a screened drain when in confinement. Waterers should be cleaned and sanitized with a commercial non-toxic disinfectant at least 3 times a week. Avoid pouring the rinse water on the litter, rather pour it into a bucket and remove it from the pen to help maintain a dry, clean environment for the ducks. Check daily to see that the waterers and feeders are working properly and not leaking or spilling.

Because young ducklings grow rapidly, they should have adequate floor, feeder, and waterer space. For the first three weeks, allow 2 square foot of space per duckling on wire and 1 square foot per duckling on litter. If confinement rearing is practiced, increase the floor space to 2.5 square feet per duckling through 7 weeks of age. Ducks should be given at least 1.5 linear inches of feeder space and 0.5 linear inches of waterer space per duckling at all times. Larger ducks such as the Muscovy may require some additional space.

Ducks are waterfowl, so they are instinctively attracted to water. This characteristic can cause a serious wet litter problem if the waterer is not designed properly or maintained at a proper height. If ducks are raised in confinement and subsequently released to a pond, a water bath is helpful for ducks to preen an keep their plumage properly oiled. This will help keep their feathers in good condition and give them the ability to swim in a pond.

Small Flock Ducks

Feed that is especially prepared for ducks is ideal. Beware of cheap rations that contain a lot of by-product ingredients because they may cost you money in the form of decreased body weight gain, poor feathering, reduced egg production, and hatchability, or other problems. A quality feed from a reputable dealer is usually the most profitable feed in the long run. If availability or the cost of duck feed is a major limitation, chicken feed could be used as an alternative. A 23% protein chick starter could be used for the first 2 weeks, followed by a 20% protein broiler grower diet. If available, a broiler finisher diet containing 18% protein can also be used. Be cautious, however, because broiler chicken feed may contain feed medications that do not have the Food and Drug Administration’s approval for ducks.

Ducks exhibit greater resistance to most diseases and parasites than do most domestic fowl. As a consequence, medicated feeds for ducks are used less often than with chickens and turkeys. Presently, there are feed medications available to control the common diseases of ducks: colibacillosis, fowl cholera, salmonellosis, and necrotic enteritis.

Colibacillosis is a common disease in ducks caused by the bacterium Escherichia coli. E. Coli can cause embryonic and duckling mortality by infecting the yolk sac. Infection of the digestive track and air sacs is most common. Infected ducklings appear droopy and listless and exhibit diarrhea and ocular discharge. Cleanliness of the hatching eggs and good management in the hatchery are necessary for prevention of Colibacillosis. The combination of sulfadimethoxine at 0.05% of the diet and ormetoprim at 0.03% of the diet for a duration of 7 days can reduce or prevent mortality from Colibacillosis in baby ducklings.

Fowl cholera is a contagious disease of domestic ducks and other birds, caused by the bacterium Pasteurella multocida. Sick ducklings refuse feed and exhibit diarrhea and mucus discharge from the mount. Mortality may be as high as 50%. A concentration of 0.44% chlortetracycline (400 g/ton) in feed is effective in reducing mortality. Treat infected ducks for 5 days. Chlortetracycline binds to calcium in breeder feed, thus a low calcium diet (0.6-0.8%) should be used during the 5 day treatment period.

Salmonellosis is a common disease of ducks caused by a variety of serotypes of salmonella. Infected ducks are listless, dehydrated, exhibit diarrhea, and show signs of incoordination, and head tremors. Mortality is about 10%. Salmonellosis can be treated with chlortetracycline (.044%) or sulfadimethoxine-ormetoprim (0.04-0.08%) in the feed.

Necrotic enteritis is a common infectious disease of breeder ducks. The exact cause is not known. Infected ducks are weak and unable to stand, and their digestive tracts are swollen and filled with blood-stained fluids. Mortality is high, approximately 40%. A concentration of 0.02% neomycin sulfate in feed for 2-3 weeks can reduce mortality.

The effectiveness of a disease prevention program, regardless of feed medication usage, is best under good management and sanitary practices. Try to keep houses clean and dry, and do not allow mud holes and slimy areas to form. Always consult a veterinarian for proper medication usage or if a disease problem is persistent or serious.

Duck Facts

Fledge: a young bird grows its flight feathers and begins to fly.
Clutch: a hatch of eggs laid over several days but incubated together.
Molt: the seasonal shedding of flight feathers.
Pip: to crack or chip a hole in an egg, usually done by the emerging chick.
Brooder: a warm box or enclosure for newly hatched chicks.

Call Duck Breed

The Call duck breed is often kept for ornamental duck purposes. The Call duck breed has two distinct varieties: The Gray Call duck and the White Call duck. Both of these are known to be smaller than the average duck breed, and shorter.

Cayuga Duck Breed

The Cayuga duck breed has very interesting plumage, bordering on green but closer to black. The Cayuga duck breed is actually an American duck breed and is the result of a marrying between the Black East India wild duck and the domestic Rouen duck breed. The Cayuga duck breed is larger than the Call ducks, with male Cayuga ducks weighing 8 pounds and the females 7 pounds.

Crested Duck Breed

Crested ducks, like the Cayuga duck breed, are a combination of two other duck breeds—the Pekin duck breed and the Aylesbury duck breed. Ornamental in purpose, these ducks have feather tufts on their heads (hence the “Crested” moniker).

Khaki Campbell Duck Breed

This English duck breed was first recognized as a duck breed over 60 years ago in 1941. Khaki Campbells are an ideal duck breed for those raising ducks for eggs. The Khaki Campbell duck breed makes such good duck egg layers that it often outranks chickens at rate of lay: 300 duck eggs annually! While the Khaki Campbell duck breed makes a good duck layer, it makes a terrible meat bird due to its light, lean weight. Khaki Campbell ducks also make nice ornamental additions to your backyard duck collection.

Muscovy Duck Breed

Some people think the Muscovy Duck breed is rather ugly, with its grey-white feathers and a pink/red crest covering their head. Regardless, this Brazilian duck breed comes in a startling array of duck color varieties, including purple and blue! Interestingly enough, the Muscovy duck breed doesn’t usually swim. The Muscovy duck breed can also reach a heavy weight compared to other duck breeds—male Muscovy ducks can get as heavy as 15 pounds, while female Muscovy ducks can grow to 10 pounds.

Introduction

Rearing ducks is not as difficult as rearing chickens.  In fact the ducks possessed a higher survival rate and are not prone to disease attacks.  The method of rearing and management of layer ducks are easier and varies slightly from those of chickens.

Breed Selection

Selecting a good breed is the main factor in ensuring good egg production.  Only ducklings from good farm producers or from accredited hatcheries should be purchased for this purpose

Characteristics for good layer duck

1. High survival rate
2. Free from any deformity
3. High egg production (around 260 to 300 eggs per year)

1. Produce good quality eggs:
   (i) Weight between 65 to 75 gm per egg
   (ii) Hard shelled eggs
   (iii) Golden egg yolk
2. Broad pelvic bone

1. Average body size.  Bodyweight during lay (between 1.3 – 1.8 kg.)

Most suitable layer ducks are the crossbreds from Khaki Campbell from Thailand, Taiwan and Australia.

Khaki Campbell

Housing and Equipment

Housing for layer duck should have the following criteria:

1. Good ventilation.  Good ventilation helps to dry up the moisture content and also remove ammonia gas from the duck faeces
2. The size of the house should be suitable to the total number of ducks reared.  Do not build the house that is too small or too big.  The space area for an adult duck should be 3 to 4 square feet.
3. The roof of the hose should be more than 3 feet from the floor level and several doors be installed facing towards the opened areas.  The purpose of the doors is to ensure that the ducks are enclosed in the house during the night so that they are safe from enemies and at the same time the eggs are not lay indiscriminately which cause the eggs to be dirty or lost.

1. The design of the duck house should be suitable for the farmers to move around like washing, treating and collection of eggs.

Equipments

1. Amongst artificial brooder are hover, infrared, high voltage bulb, kerosene lamps
2. Feeding and drinking troughs
3. Laying boxes

1. Egg trays, pails, spades for mixing feed etc.

Feed

An important factor to ensure successful production of the project is feed.  Feed is an important factor in controlling satisfactory profit.  From the economic point of view, feed will determine the cost of production.  As a result the farmers must be smart in evaluating different kinds of feed to save cost in managing the project.

There are 2 types of feed suitable for layer duck

1. Commercial feed

1. Self mixed feed

1.Commercial Feed

Commercial feed is manufactured from feedmills whereby the feed contained essential nutritious food values and vitamins that are formulated according to age and species of the animal.

2. Self-Mixed Feed

One formulated feed which contains all the necessary vitamins that is easily available can be self mixed for the good production and health of the duck. The ingredient are: Broken rice, padi grain, fish meal, prawn meal, soya bean meal, layer premix vitamins and minerals, grounded limestones, corn, synthetics pigments and others.

Estimated Feed requirement for a layer duck

For a layer duck controlling the feed intake is necessary when they are 7 weeks old.  Controlling the feed can be observed by looking at the bodyweight and for a layer duck that begin to lay, the feed intake should be around 1.3 kg – 1.75 kg. (for Campbell Duck the maximum weight is 1.9 kg )

Duck can succumbed to disease.  Prevention is necessary to prevent ducks from getting infectious diseases and the followings should be observed:

1. Always keep the farm clean
2. Give fresh quality feed without any moulds
3. Supply fresh water.  Water mixed with ‘anti-stress’ should be given to 1 to 3 days old ducklings
4. Those duckling that signs of sickness should be isolated and treated or culled
5. The housing sheds should be sprayed with disinfectants such as lysol or lindoress before the arrival of the new ducklings
6. Notify the Veterinary Department if there are any signs of diseases

Daylight Requirement

Daylight is an important aspect in the management of layer duck.  Daylight can be obtained from natural sunlight or additional light from electrical bulbs or kerosene lamps.

2 aspect why light intensity is important at night

1. To brighten up the whole shed to avoid the ducklings from unnecessary fright against foreign objects or noise at night
2. To speed up and increase egg production

Layer duck above 20 weeks require not less 16 hours of continuous light.  In view of the fact that only 12 hours of daylight  is available, it is suggested that an additional supply of another 3 – 4 hours of light must be obtained from lamps in the sheds

1. Daylight intensity/electric bulbs of 250 watts/1000 square feet
2. The distance between the floor and the electric lamp should be 7 feet
3. If necessary the farmer can use a time switch for easy management

Efficiency in the management of duck rearing is an important aspect in determining maximum profit with minimum cost of production.  The following aspects in the management are:

1. Preparation before the arrival of the new ducklings
2. Rearing the ducklings in the brooder
3. Managing the growers

1. Managing the layers

Preparation before the arrival of the new ducklings

1. Get ready the hover guard and artificial brooder (3 meter in diameter will accommodate 500 ducklings)
2. Place some sawdust /padi husk into the brooder guard to a depth of 3 -4 inches

1. Supply with water and put on the heater 2 – 3 hours before the ducklings arrive

Rearing the ducklings in the brooder

1. The duckling should first be given with water.  After 1/2 an hour, feed is then given
2. The brooding period is 20 – 25 days.  Adjust the heater by observing the concentration of the ducklings around the heater.  If the heater is too hot the ducklings will stay far away from the heater.  If it is cold the ducklings will crowd around the heater.  The ducklings will be evenly distributed if the temperature of the brooder is ideal
3. Give the duckling anti-stress for 3 days
4. Give crumble starter feed ad lib
5. The brooder guard should be enlarged according to the size of the ducklings and increase the number of feeding and water troughs if necessary

1. Ensure the flooring materials are always dried and evenly distributed

Managing the Growers

1. Remove the heater and brooder guard
2. Change into bigger feeding and water trough
3. Flooring material (sawdust) should always be dried
4. Give grower pellet feed or used mixed feed which should contained 16% protein and energy 2500-2800 kcal
5. Weigh 2 – 3 ducks from each group to check their weights

1. Ducks whose age exceed 7 weeks old need to control the amount of feed so that they are not too fat until they cannot lay

Managing the Layers

Ducks start to lay when they are 20 to 22 weeks

1. Give layer pellet feed.  If used mixed feed, ensure it contained 2600 – 2900 k/cal
2. This feed must begin when the ducks are 16 weeks or 4 – 5 weeks before they start to lay
3. Give feed according to correct measurement ( 150 – 170 gm ) per day per bird
4. Other additional feed such as grass and vegetables can be mixed together
5. To ensure good quality eggs, coloring ingredient Synthetic Pigment can be added into feed (100 gm SP + 100 kg of self mixed feed)
6. Place the layer boxes ( 1 box = 5 ducks )
7. Keep the ducks within  compound so that so that they won’t lay all over the compound.
8. Collect the eggs in the morning before feed is given

1. Check the necessary amount of light according to age

Products

The products that can be obtained by keeping layer ducks are:

Fresh Duck Egg

Can be sold to wholesalers, retailers, or individuals for making local cakes.  The eggs are graded according to the yellow contents of the eggs.  This can be observed by using a color instrument (Kipas Roche).  Good quality eggs sold in the market measured between 13.6 – 15.0.

Salted Eggs

Salted eggs are preserved eggs meant for consumption or storage.  The price of salted eggs is much better than the fresh ones. The method of preserving duck eggs had being explained in ” Guideline In Processing Salted Duck Eggs”

Brooding requirements

Natural brooding
Goslings and ducklings can be successfully brooded by broody chicken hens and most breeds of ducks and geese. If the young birds were not hatched by the broody female, place them under her at night. Be certain broody birds are free of lice and mites. Provide the hen and her brood with a dry comfortable shelter.

The hen will need grain and plenty of fresh, clean water supplied in a container that will not allow the young to get wet.

Artificial brooding
Today, hatcheries produce day-old ducklings and goslings in large numbers. Commercial growers brood and rear them in about the same way they would baby chicks.

Ducks and geese are hardy and are not susceptible to many of the common poultry diseases. This makes them easy to raise. Brooding requirements are simple and special housing or equipment is not necessary. Because of their rapid growth and early feathering, they do not require as long a brooding period as do baby chicks.

Types of brooders

The infrared heat lamp type of electric brooder is recommended for brooding small groups of birds. Many commercial raisers use gas brooders, but any type of good baby chick brooder may be used successfully. When using infrared brooders, allow one 250-watt lamp per 25 goslings or 30 ducklings. With other types, you can determine the number of birds per hover by cutting the brooder’s rated chick capacity by half for ducklings and by one-third for goslings. Because ducklings and goslings are larger, it usually is necessary to raise the hover 3 to 4 inches higher than for chicks.

Brooding Temperatures

The behavior of the young birds is a better guide than a thermometer. When brooder temperature is too hot, the birds will crowd away from the heat. High temperatures may result in a slower rate of feathering and growth.

When the temperature is uncomfortably cold, goslings tend to huddle together under the brooder or crowd in corners. Keeping a light on the birds at night will discourage such crowding. An infrared brooder provides enough light for this purpose.

When the brooding temperature is right, the goslings will be well distributed over the floor. At night, the birds should form a circle around the hover.

A starting temperature near 90 degrees at the edge of the hover is about right. This temperature should be reduced about 5 to 10 degrees per week until 70 degrees is reached. When using infrared brooders, air temperature is not so important. Heat usually is not required after the fifth or sixth week, and in good weather, the young birds can be taken out to pasture.

The Brooder House

A special building is not required. It simply must provide protection from the weather and be reasonably well lit and ventilated. For brooding small numbers, a colony brooder house or any small building may be used. For brooding larger numbers, a barn, large poultry house or regular broiler house is recommended.

A wood, concrete, or dirt floor is satisfactory. Allow about 1-1/2 square feet of floor space per bird and cover the floor with about four inches of absorbent litter. Sawdust, shavings, ground corn cobs, cottonseed hulls, peanut hulls or peat moss are all good. Dampness is apt to be more of a problem with ducklings and goslings than it typically is in brooding baby chicks. Removal of wet spots and frequent additions of clean, dry litter are recommended.

Feeding

Goslings and ducklings are ready for feed and water when they arrive. Use crumbilized chick or poult starter for the first week to 10 days. A pelleted grower ration plus cracked corn, wheat, milo, oats or other grain can be fed after this time. Keep feed before the birds at all times. Also, provide insoluble grit. Place feed on rough paper or cup flats for the first few days. Do not use chick box tops or other smooth-surfaced lids or paper as feeders. When such slick-surfaced materials are used, leg damage results.

Be certain the feed you are using contains only those additives approved for ducks and geese. Certain types of drugs that are sometimes included in chick starting and growing mashes for coccidiosis control are harmful to goslings. They may cause lameness or even death. Coccidiosis has not been a problem in waterfowl production in this area.

Commercially grown ducklings generally are ready for market in seven to eight weeks. Goslings usually are marketed in the fall months at 24 to 30 weeks of age. Finishing rations should contain some protein similar to turkey finishing rations.

Water

Plenty of drinking water should be available at all times. Goslings and ducklings consume enormous quantities due to rapid growth. Use waterers that the birds cannot get into and splash. This is important in the brooder house. Water for swimming is not necessary; however, ponds provide an easy way to water goslings on pasture. Hog waterers make good range waterers for waterfowl.

Make arrangements to provide pasture or lawn clippings starting as early as the first week. When the weather is mild, goslings can be let out and allowed to graze when only a few days old.

Grass is the natural food of goslings. Great savings in feed can be made by providing good pasture throughout the growing period. At five or six weeks of age they can subsist entirely on good pasture, although some supplemental feeding is recommended until the birds are completely feathered.

Experience has shown that ladino clover makes fine pasture for goslings. Other types of white clovers also are very good, as are most varieties of grasses. In Missouri, bluegrass, orchardgrass, timothy and bromegrass have been used. Small grains such as barley, wheat and rye make excellent early or fall pasture. Goslings or geese will scarcely touch sweet clover, lespedeza or alfalfa.

Allow about one acre of pasture for each 20 to 40 birds. The amount required depends on the size of the goslings and quality of pasture. When the pasture is poor, supplemental grain feeding is necessary.

A pasture rotation system is recommended. Protect goslings from rain or wet grass for the first few weeks, especially when the weather is cool. Shade must be provided in hot weather.

Because ducks do not forage as well as geese, it is recommended that commercial growers rear ducks without access to pasture. Ducks will, however, use some green feed and eat insects. The small grower probably will not want to confine his flock.

Be certain that pasture and green feeds you use do not have any chemical treatment that would be harmful to the flock.

Fencing

It usually is necessary to fence the pastures or fields. Most woven wire field fencing is of small enough mesh to confine birds 4 to 6 weeks or older. Two-inch mesh poultry netting is commonly used for younger birds. The fence does not need to be higher than ordinary heights since the birds seldom fly. Eighteen inches to two feet is an adequate height. Several farmers have reported good success using electric fencing.

Feeding Directions: Feed ad libitum to mature birds 2 to 4 weeks before breeding season

Feeding Directions: Feed ad libitum to mature birds 2 to 4 weeks before breeding season

Feeding Instruction:  Feed ad libitum to non – breeding mature, fully feathered birds